Robert's Ramblings

I used to to take great delight in finding a leafy seadragon for other divers, then watching, waiting and counting how long it took them to separate creature from its environment.

Here in the sea grass you would think that they would be easy to spot compared to the yellow or brown algae. Actually I have been surprised just how long some divers have taken to separate the dragon from the detail.

There must have been at least thirty divers down at Rapid Bay last Sunday. I wonder just how many spotted this beautiful dragon feasting on tiny crustaceans out in the sea grass?


Photo: Robert Rath, 'The Dragon Is In The Detail' 1/160s f/10 ISO320 14mm

It's been a couple months now since my extraordinary experience in Norway beneath northern lights, swimming with orca and humpback whales and sharing all these incredible experiences with an amazing group of people.

I am blessed not only for my own experiences but also for the way that everyone who I shared this amazing adventure with has also shared their own images, thoughts and feelings. Thank you Pasi, Kei, Carra, Sonya, Chuta, Elvira, Norbi, Krisztina, Peggy, Torben, Jasmine and Darren. It has been my privilege to share Norway with you all.

Oh the wonder of it all. The more I experience our world the more I want to experience our world.


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Oh The Wonder' 20s f/4 ISO1600 16mm

I've Seen Things You People Wouldn't Believe

“I've seen things you people wouldn't believe. Attack ships on fire off the shoulder of Orion. I watched C-beams glitter in the dark near the Tannhäuser Gate. All those moments will be lost in time, like tears in rain. Time to die.”

Rutger Hauer's haunting words spoken by Roy Batty in the 1982 science fiction epic, 'Blade Runner', come to me in those moments lost in wonder gazing at the brilliant dark sky above me.

I was so taken with the brilliance of the stars above me as I emerged from the dark waters of an Edithburgh night dive that I just had to capture something of this beautiful night's sky.

By the time I had cleaned all my gear, set up the tripod and aligned the mount, low-level clouds rolled in from the west and took this wondrous scene away. I might not have captured Orion as I had hoped but at least I got one test shot off before the shoulder of Orion was lost to a blanket of grey above me.

It's only a single frame of what is arguably our Milky Way's most stunning astronomical feature, but I still get those goose bumps looking at it, looking up and imagining all those 'things you people wouldn't believe'.


Photo: Robert Rath, 'I've Seen Things You People Wouldn't Believe' 15s f/10 ISO3200 600mm

It's 11:00pm and most of the sleepy seaside town of Edithburgh has retired for the evening. Meanwhile I make some final adjustments to my new manual focus gear and then head down to the jetty.

It was only going to be a short dive with a tiny eight litre scuba cylinder. One and a half hour later I surface from an amazing undersea world only to be greeted by a dark sky blazing with stars.

I am always surprised when I dive here at night and this night was no different having had encounters with four different species of octopus. A first for me.

This guy, a gloomy octopus was sitting on a rock literally where I descended to the sandy bottom. At first I just looked at the rock thinking something is not right about that rock. Then slowly the hidden form began to take shape in my mind for what it really was.

I sat and watched for a while, the octopus watched me back. Eventually, getting a little nervous it started to change colour, becoming prickly in appearance and finally getting up on its tentacles before skulking off trying not to be noticed.

And this was only the beginning of my octopus odyssey. Later during the dive I spotted a few keeled octopus, sand octopus and even a couple deadly blue ring octopus.

There were a few other surprises for me on this night dive but I will leave them for another time but I will finish with my thoughts on manual focus gear for macro; 'it roctopusses'!


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Roctopussy' 1/160 f/16 ISO320 100mm

What a lovely way to herald in a new year than to escape to one of my all time favorite places (within a few hours drive) and be reminded why I fell in love with the little seaside town of Edithburgh more than 30 years ago.

On this occasion we only stayed two nights but in that time I spent nearly seven hours underwater, stayed up late under the incredible starry dark sky to photograph the Orion Nebula, enjoyed the company of long time friends and got to walk bare foot on the foreshore photographing birds and dogs and avoiding getting my feet sliced by mussels and razor shells.

It was beach side, blue sky, salty aired relaxing at its best.

Edithburgh, ... we had forgotten how much we've missed you and have resolved to come back more often.


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Blue Sky Banking' 1/1600 f/6.3 ISO100 600mm

I actually thought about not saying 'Thank you' in the title of this 'best nine' composite image for the year 2018 that was. It just seemed odd, or out of place. I am glad I kept it.

2018 has been a year of highs and lows from injury, and rehabilitation to opportunities to travel and experience some extraordinary places in our amazing world. Over many years photography has changed the way I value places and moments. It has opened my eyes to the joy of sharing. It has helped grow a sense of direction for the future and helped distill my goals for 2019 and beyond.

Looking back I realise how blessed I am for the awesome people in my life from which all this has come. I must thank my closest friends, the ones who encourage my crazy ideas, nag me when I start to get lazy, criticise my attitude when it needs it and make life between adventures fun.

Then there are my peers, mentors, peers, mentors... Those fellow photographers, many also my good friends, who are my inspiration, my competition and my motivation. Of these I am especial grateful for the long time friendship of Darren Jew who has inspired me for nearly ten years now to take on the extraordinary adventures like the Norwegian fjords to swim with and photograph the orca.

Finally thank you to my ever patient and always supportive family, our daughter Rebekah for putting up with yet another photo and to my wife Jennifer for simply letting me go out and do what I love.

Thank you all.


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Thank You For Making 2018 Extraordinary'

Twas the Night before Christmas

By Clement Clarke Moore

Twas the night before Christmas, when all through the house
Not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse.
The stockings were hung by the chimney with care,
In hopes that St Nicholas soon would be there.

The children were nestled all snug in their beds,
While visions of sugar-plums danced in their heads.
And mamma in her ‘kerchief, and I in my cap,
Had just settled our brains for a long winter’s nap.

When out on the lawn there arose such a clatter,
I sprang from the bed to see what was the matter.
Away to the window I flew like a flash,
Tore open the shutters and threw up the sash.

The moon on the breast of the new-fallen snow
Gave the lustre of mid-day to objects below.
When, what to my wondering eyes should appear,
But a miniature sleigh, and eight tinny reindeer.

With a little old driver, so lively and quick,
I knew in a moment it must be St Nick.
More rapid than eagles his coursers they came,
And he whistled, and shouted, and called them by name!

"Now Dasher! now, Dancer! now, Prancer and Vixen!
On, Comet! On, Cupid! on, on Donner and Blitzen!
To the top of the porch! to the top of the wall!
Now dash away! Dash away! Dash away all!"

As dry leaves that before the wild hurricane fly,
When they meet with an obstacle, mount to the sky.
So up to the house-top the coursers they flew,
With the sleigh full of Toys, and St Nicholas too.

And then, in a twinkling, I heard on the roof
The prancing and pawing of each little hoof.
As I drew in my head, and was turning around,
Down the chimney St Nicholas came with a bound.

He was dressed all in fur, from his head to his foot,
And his clothes were all tarnished with ashes and soot.
A bundle of Toys he had flung on his back,
And he looked like a peddler, just opening his pack.

His eyes-how they twinkled! his dimples how merry!
His cheeks were like roses, his nose like a cherry!
His droll little mouth was drawn up like a bow,
And the beard of his chin was as white as the snow.

The stump of a pipe he held tight in his teeth,
And the smoke it encircled his head like a wreath.
He had a broad face and a little round belly,
That shook when he laughed, like a bowlful of jelly!

He was chubby and plump, a right jolly old elf,
And I laughed when I saw him, in spite of myself!
A wink of his eye and a twist of his head,
Soon gave me to know I had nothing to dread.

He spoke not a word, but went straight to his work,
And filled all the stockings, then turned with a jerk.
And laying his finger aside of his nose,
And giving a nod, up the chimney he rose!

He sprang to his sleigh, to his team gave a whistle,
And away they all flew like the down of a thistle.
But I heard him exclaim, ‘ere he drove out of sight,
"Happy Christmas to all, and to all a good-night!"

Photo: Robert Rath, 'The Night Before Christmas' 1/200s f/2.5 ISO800 50mm

Some people love to travel to foreign destinations. Some people just love travelling.

Airport lounges and stop overs are all part of the mix. The trick is finding the travelling as interesting as the destination.

Having a camera at hand makes all the difference.


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Gate Lounge' 1/5s f/22 ISO100 16mm

Peering down into the inky, who knows how deep, black water beneath me I was beginning to question the merit of floating out here in a Norwegian fjord well after sunset. Still it's warmer here in the water than in the icy wind above me.

Then suddenly a flash of whiteness snaps me out of my moribund reverie and I am wooting with orca joy again.

I have no idea if I can capture this beautiful creature in the darkness. Perhaps I'll get lucky as he fades into the blackness below.

Photo: Robert Rath, 'A Flash of Whiteness' 1/200s f/2.8 IS12800 35mm

We had just finished putting up the tree. Braced, it . Watered it. Waited a while longer and watered it again.

Soon the room was filled the lovely smell of fresh pine and we stood back to admire our unadorned symbol of Christmas.

Just as we we inspecting the crown we noticed that the prime position was already spoken for. There at the top tracing the pine needle tips was a silver star of web along with it's creator.

It looks like the Christmas trimming has already begun.


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Christmas Spider' 2s f/14 ISO800 100mm

The fountain in Rundle Mall is over 100 years old and seems at odds with the recent modernisation of 'The Mall'.

I am so glad they made it an integral part of our modern mall along with other hints of a bygone age.

As I walk though Adelaide's premier retail precinct I am awed by all the sparkle, the glitz and the shiny things but the fountain makes me smile.

Photo: Robert Rath, 'Splish Splash' 1/1000 f/1.4 ISO1600 50mm

Stroll down any high street and peer into any of the many retail outlets at the goods for sale and shoppers eagerly perusing and purchasing with enthusiasm.

The future must be bright. Even the mannequins have to wear shades ...


Photo: Robert Rath, 'The Future's So Bright', 1/320s f/1.4 ISO320 50mm

Among the many things I love about Adelaide, are her sunsets which can be something extraordinary.

Being distracted by so many other shiny things of late (metaphor for both orca and long hours at work) it was an absolute delight this weekend past when she turned on one of her amazing sunset spectacles.

It's been a while so I headed down to the ocean and set up my camera in the in the gentle surf of Henley beach and this night I felt like she was welcoming me home again.


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Henley Beach Welcome', 0.4s f/16 ISO100 160mm

It seems almost idyllic here with the orca in the waters off Skjervøy. The weather has been kind to us but that will not last for much longer.

The mountains which create the deep fjords provide protection from the winds by limiting their fetch and keeping the seas calm. Still there are limits and a storm is on its way. No matter how bad it gets the orca will not mind here in the fjords but not so for us.

We will be sailing from Skjervøy back to Tromsø so must leave before the storm arrives.

'... so long and thanks for all the fish'


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Lazy Days Before The Storm', 1/400s f/2.8 ISO1600 200mm

'Stortinget', in the centre of Oslo, is an intimidatingly grand building and well deserving of a captured image during my meanderings through this beautiful city.

Had I been here during the day, and more specifically, on a Saturday, I might have had the chance of a guided tour if I was one of the first 30 people to wait in line. Other than that the only way to see the inside of the The Norwegian Parliament, the centre of political power in Norway, would be to become a Norwegian citizen and get elected to office.

This time around, just capturing its beautiful night time grandeur will be enough.


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Stortinget', 2.5s f/16 ISO160 16mm

I had my seat allocated and was asked not to change seats until we had reached cruising altitude.

With only four of us in this entire section I was spoiled for choice not just on what side of the plane I'd admire the view from but then which row of seats to choose to sleep for the night.

On a thirteen hour long haul ferry flight with full cabin service who needs a higher class!


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Ferry Flight', 1/100s f/8 ISO800 20mm

For seven days and seven nights you were our home, our comfort, our security.

You brought us all together.
You shared our conversations.
You kept us protected from the cold.
You gave us a place to sleep at night.
You provided wholesome meals to help us recharge.
We didn't have to come ashore unless we wanted to.
We woke to the smells of breakfast from your galley.
You provided hot showers after days out in the water.
Your coffee machine was always ready.
And you showed us the orca of Norway.

Thank you Ostee Star and Crew, you were awesome!!


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Ostee Star', 1/800s f/2.8 ISO1600 200mm

It's not everyday you see such a juxtaposition of ideas in the one moment.

Here we are watching one of the oldest creatures on the planet being stalked by a new predator, the new tech on the block, the drone.

Then there is the realisation you just might be looking at that killer National Geographic footage of a humpback whale preparing to dive from a vantage point you could never have imagined not so long ago. Except that you are outside of the illusion which will capture the imagination of thousands if only for a fleeting moment before the next jaw dropping scene rushes them on to the next visual feast.

Out here it all happens as it happens; in its own good time. That drone or even our photographs may capture beautiful moments but it can never capture an entire day or week or season. To experience that you simply have to be here. Not just for the spectacular moments but for all the spaces that separate them.

Still, I'd love to have been that drone.


Photo: Robert Rath, 'The Humpback and the Drone', 1/640s f/2.8 ISO1600 200mm

Looking up into the that vast green aurora emblazoned across the Norwegian night sky and how it spread from horizon to horizon you simply cant take it all in in at once. Unless you have the eyes of a fish that is!

Taken with a fish eye lens that has true 180 degree vision you can indeed capture it all at once. At first that unfamiliar circular image just does not make sense to our non-fish brains. It should be rectangular shouldn't it?

Actually even with our own eyes we see the world in circles, just not 180 degrees of it at once. We have just gotten so used to our paintings, pictures, photographs, books, devices and screens being rectangular that we have almost forgotten what our eyes really see.

That night in Skjervøy we saw the eye of the dragon up there!


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Eye of the Dragon', 10s f/4 8 ISO3200 8mm

Each day we went out we left the cosy comfort of our host vessel, the Ostee Star, donned several layers of thermal undergarments and enclosed our selves in dry-suits. Two layers of neoprene hoods and gloves later and we were ready. I added another twelve kilograms of lead on my weight belt just to male sure I'd stay under the water with all that undesired buoyancy.

We spent our days out in the fjords on the fast and nimble inflatable runabouts, 'Brig' and 'Nemo'. These small but quick boats were essential to moving us around quickly as we followed moving pods of orca or traveled to flocking seabirds hinting at an orca hunt in progress off in the distance.

These little boats and their drivers, Norbi here on the Brig and Ali on our boat Nemo, not only gave us a sense of freedom out on water but also of vulnerability, excitement, and adventure. The other advantage of these stable little boats is being able to get into the water and back onto the boat quickly again. I lost count of how many times Ali called "into the water' and then "back in the boat", over and over and over and over.

Of course we did not have to get into the water for every orca encounter. There was plenty to see from the boats as well. Sometimes not jumping in was the better option as many of our underwater encounters were just brief glimpse when the pod choose to dive below us or change direction.

Most of the peopIe I know think of an adventure like this one with the orca in Norway as being a 'once in a life time' experience. I'd like to turn that around into 'a lifetime of' experiences. I'll be back!


Photo: Robert Rath, 'The Brig', 1/800s f/2.8 ISO640 70mm

They tell me I am supposed to pay attention. It is an airline safety announcement after all.

Of course I paid attention. So much so I even took a photograph!


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Paying Attention', 1/20s f/11 ISO3200 35mm

Most times we entered the water with these beautiful animals they would simply dive down leaving us with a just tantalising glimpse as they disappeared into the depths.

Even when they stayed close to us for a while out of curiosity the low light and the poor visibility meant that our human eyes were much better suited to simply watching than looking through a viewfinder.

As I gave my attention to this large male cruising beneath me, ten others of the pod cruised right by me to my chagrin and the delight of the others. I did however get to see them for just a moment before they also disappeared into the distance.

Still I am in awe of this particular moment when I was so close that I could have reached out and touched his fin.


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Beauty Below Me', 1/160s f/2.8 ISO8000 31mm

I had just arrived in Tromsø, made the short trip to Ersfjordbotn and began getting settled on board our vessel when the word went out, 'the lights are in the sky'.

Half unpacked, find tripod, check camera, leap from the ship onto the wharf, find a spot, set-up and go! What a wonderful introduction to Northern Norway!

This very first glimpse of the aurora borealis has a special place now in my heart. Like the very first time I remember seeing snow, or even the ocean.
This wonderful moment shared by all of us, still strangers on our first day, set the stage for the friendships we would make.

I don't know who from our little group is in the middle field, crouched alongside their own tripods. I do know that they where just as taken with capturing this wonderful sight as I was.


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Capturing The Wonderful',30s f/4 ISO1600 13mm

Nothing could have prepared me for my time in Norway.

Even while I was there the immensity of the collective experiences seemed to elude me amid the extraordinary moments, the waiting between them and even the, albeit very brief, miserable ones.

With more than thirty hours of travel on my own from Adelaide to Tromsø I had plenty of time to worry if this experience was going to be everything I imagined it to be. I was worried I would not be fit enough for my time out on the water. I was worried my equipment would not be good enough. I was worried we would not find orca and I was worried I'd come home with an experience somewhat less than the one I imagined. Oh how I worried in vain as nothing could have prepared me for the amazing days which followed.

When I arrived in Tromsø I had the warmest welcome from old friends Darren, Jasmine, Pasi and Ali and began meeting the rest of the team for our arctic adventure. That evening Norway welcomed us all with an extraordinary light show of emerald green veils dancing across the night sky. Not once in my planning had I even anticipated seeing this wonder of the arctic which took away the chill of the icy wind as we all reveled in its beauty.

The next day in Skjervøy we found orca, hundreds of orca and tens of humpback whales. It was like nothing I imagined. This was their home for the winter and I felt so privileged and humbled being here with them in such a beautiful place.

Over the days which which followed we had countless incredible moments swimming with orca and swimming with the humpback whales. We floated over undersea rivers of Norwegian herring come here to spawn. In the evenings we shared our stories from each day. We learned about orcas around the world and their behaviors both in the wild and in captivity. We worked on and shared our images. We reveled in the northern lights on the clear nights and we slept soundly after very physical days out on the water. And, we made new friends.

Over eight days together on the boat Ostee Star I got to know Peggy and Torben, who fed us and kept the boat running smoothly and Krisztina and Norbi who taught us about the orca and guided us out on the water. My old friend Pasi made the perfect cabin companion being tolerant to my late nights. I made new friends with Chuta with his infectious laughter, Sonya and her gentle way, with Carra and her photographic enthusiasm, Elvira and her quiet nature and with Kei and his generosity. I can honestly say that by the end of the trip I loved being with every one of these beautiful people and was sad saying goodbye to them as much as to Norway when it was time to come home.

I need to especially thank Darren and Jasmine who created and ran this tour. You guys are amazing having put together an experience I will forever cherish. Thank you both. Last but not least, thank you Ali for keeping us safe out on the water and dropping us into the ocean for those amazing whale experiences.

This trip has been a treasure of experiences I never imaged and will never forget. I am both humbled and grateful such and extraordinary opportunity has come my way. Thank you to every one of you who helped create this experience of a lifetime.


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Norwegian Gold ',1/400s f/2.8 ISO125 35mm

It's high noon and the sun has gifted us a rare glimpse of itself between the distant peaks.

We have been lucky while in Northern Norway with mild albeit cold conditions. The sunshine has however been elusive and in just one week from when this image was captured the sun will no longer grace the visible horizon remaining hidden behind the mountains. One week on from then and the sun will not rise again until mid January.

I wonder what it would like to live here for a year? Would the long summer days be a comfort after the dark winter? What would it be like in summer when the sun never sets but spins around and around in perpetual circles like a yellow searchlight.

I am sure I will be back here again one day, though perhaps not for a year.


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Noonday Bokeh ',1/320s f/2.8 ISO100 31mm

Floating here seams so surreal. A contradiction of serene calm and the frantic busyness of a fishing vessel eager to depart with the spoils of their morning's work.

Just moments before the sea was alive with gulls in the air, with orca stealing from the nets and with humpback whales cruising, waiting for a catch to be dumped if the fishers experienced problems hauling in.

Like in a dream I ponder the unlikeliness of finding myself here in the extraordinary place.


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Dream Boat',1/160s f/2.8 ISO100 16mm

The Auroras have been a mystery to me my entire life, something almost never seen from southern Australia and certainly not by me.

I had seen photographs, watched documentaries, even studied a little on how they are formed. Still they had remained to me in the world of myth. My visit to Norway changed everything.

My very first encounter was in the night sky of Tromsø. At first I thought I was looking at wisps of cloud in the sky as if lit by city lights below. Then I noticed that hallmark green glow.

The next night up in Skjervøy, 386 km above the arctic circle, the night sky simply took my breath away.

We watched those coloured veils of light dance across the entire sky from snow capped peaks to snow capped peaks while the calm waters of the fjords glowed green below.

The Auroras truly deserve there mythical place in our imagination and not for me they are real.


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Aurora Borealis',10s f/4 ISO3200 16mm

Ølhallen in Tromsø may be the oldest pub in the Arctic but at ninety years it is certainly Tromsø's oldest.

I am sure they did not start out with 72 beers on tap but 90 years later that long bar with all those beers is an impressive sight. Just watching the barman pour our tasting selection was almost as much fun as drinking them.

We tried a selection of Norwegian beers ranging in strength from mild to very strong. All were wonderfully refreshing though perhaps after having spent a week on the ocean we were a little unbiased!


Photo: Robert Rath, '72 Beers', 1/50s f/2.8 ISO2500 110mm

The classic orca images we see in posters of large dorsal finned animals cruising in pods through misty fjords are almost a clichéd view of the majesty of the orca. They are however just a surface glimpse, the tip of the orca, of their amazing lives below the surface.

Here in Skjervøy in November there is very little light, the visibility underwater not so great and the orca are often swimming very fast. Little surprise most images are captured at the surface. To capture this image underwater I am having to shoot around ISO 5000 with a wide open f/2.8 aperture and pan with a fast shutter speed.

After multiple frustrating attempts over days at composition, focus, timing and just waiting it soon became obvious in these gloomy conditions that our eyes and our hearts are a far better tools than my camera will ever be. In the dim light and often at the limit of visibility we have been able to observe, appreciate, sometimes even laugh at, and hopefully learn a little more about the orca as they hunt and play and socialise and be themselves.

I can't possibly capture how breathtakingly beautiful the orca are underwater. That challenge extends far beyond just the gloom and the visibility to their extraordinary presence, power and grace. I am however grateful to be given the opportunity to try and will be back for certain.


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Beauty in the Gloom', 1/160s f/2.8 ISO5000 35mm

There are no words describe the world which has greeted us every morning here in the fjords of Skjervøy, Norway. It presses all of my buttons on what makes our world beautiful.

Snow capped mountains, forests, an extraordinary sunrise, dramatic clouds and the ocean all in one amazing and integrated earthscape. This really is a very special part of the world and I know how privileged I am to be here.

The fact that the orca and humpback whales inhabit these beautiful waters as well make being here a humbling experience which I am so grateful to have the chance to experience.


Photo: Robert Rath, 'Norwegian Wonderland', 1/1000s f/2.8 ISO640 70mm