The White Deer of Mallow Christmas

Throughout the year, the Annabella Roundabout in Mallow is a turning point in the everyday lives of Cork locals. On towards Buttevant or Charleville, or perhaps off to Kanturk, Banteer, or Rathmore. A right turn from Cork will take you into Mallow and perhaps on to villages beyond, such as Rahan or Killavullen. Once a … Read more

Moments of Gratitude

Every time the massive body of a humpback whale surfaces next to me, the feeling is indescribable. There is surprise, there is fear. I feel awe, exhilaration, and joy. Finally, after the moment has passed and the sea returns to its untroubled calm, I am filled with a deep sense of gratitude. Combine these moments … Read more

The Teeth of the World

During our Norwegian adventure, the intimidating outline of Kvænangsfjellet, with its jagged nunataks towering over glacial couloirs, left me in awe every single time we passed beneath its looming presence. Again and again, I am reminded of the impossibility of truly sharing the experience of presence when the surrounding world is as dramatic, as rugged, … Read more

We Like to Watch

Whale watching has become an industry in its own right. It makes sense to me. I feel it caters to a deeper need we all have to reconnect with the natural world. But why whales? Dolphins and whales have always held a special place in my heart. They epitomise the idea that intelligent beings, perhaps … Read more

Moonlit Company

Finding the words is difficult. Every moment spent in the company of these magnificent animals holds its own special magic. Every moment immersed in the beauty of the Norwegian fjords is breathtaking. Deep into twilight, with a rising moon lighting snow-capped mountains, the orca keep us company as we make our way home at the … Read more

Dark Deep Down

It is well into an Irish winter now and, as much as I am looking forward to festive time with family, I am missing that deep, dark water off the coast of south-west Kerry. Here, with Richie and John, we are exploring the terrain off Doulus Head, out from Cahersiveen. It’s dark and it’s deep … Read more

Millpond Moment

A black-tipped blade broke through the smooth water ahead. The gently rising fin soon became orca – like a submarine breaching the surface. Unlike the submarine, the orca’s body surged forwards and down again as it slipped once more beneath the calm water. When the ocean is almost millpond-flat, any disturbance on the water is … Read more

Orcinus orca ater

A breathtaking moment in the presence of the ocean’s greatest predator – or was it? When I talk about being in the water surrounded by killer whales, I’m often asked, “Were you scared?” or “What if they changed their mind about the menu?” I can honestly say that not only was I completely comfortable swimming … Read more

Herring Salad, Orca Dressing

There is action below as the orca dip, dive, and circle. For every orca seen on the surface, there are two or more below—herding, corralling, and reining in the herring, keeping them packed in a tight ball like some giant underwater salad bowl. It’s too late in the day to get into the water with … Read more

Eire 80

Eighty years ago, a large whitewashed “80 EIRE” sign was cut into the rock at Malin Head on the Inishowen Peninsula, Ireland’s northernmost mainland point. This sign, along with more than 80 others around the Irish coastline, was created to warn Axis forces that they had entered neutral territory and to serve as a navigational … Read more